I think I'm one of the most fortunate people in the world. I travel around looking for the best waves and appreciate it every second.
The surfing - the waves in Indonesia are amazing.
One meal I'm constantly reminded about is when I ate kangaroo tail in the desert in Australia; it wasn't necessarily my favorite but I will always remember it.
You'd be surprised how cold you get in the water especially surfing a place like Pipeline. If the tradewinds are blowing it gets chilly and sometimes you don't catch a wave for an hour.
I've never actually even contemplated writing a book or having a book.
Nothing could happen to me in the water that would make me want to go on the beach and fight someone. That's just not how I do things.
We dream of the perfect wave the perfect job the perfect house. When we get there we dream of something else
We dream of the perfect wave the perfect job the perfect house the perfect love and when we get there we dream of something else and the journey goes on.
Truthfully I despise hotels. I've had such better experiences staying at people's houses and guesthouses; it's so much more comfortable and homey.
To catch a wave to stand up - it was just life-changing. There was nothing that even came close. I quit playing all other sports - by the time I was eleven they were toast.
I've always been a big supporter of the Surfrider Foundation. I started my own foundation Rob Machado Foundation which focuses on environmental education for the little people of the world.